When, like me, you've spent the better part of fifty years searching for the cheapest form of deliciousness possible, it's hard to just swallow hard and accept the fact that eating at four-star restaurants is, well, expensive. Really expensive. So, until I ate the insanely reasonable $28 two-course lunch a number of times at Eleven Madison Park recently, the only place I could send serious eaters in search of a four-star midday meal at neighborhood restaurant prices was Jean-Georges -